Nahanni River

After landing at Island Lake, we decided to spend the night there. While it rained a little, it cleared up after awhile. We spent the afternoon getting ourselves organized for the trip. We paddled around the lake looking for fish, but there didn't seem to be any. There was a hunters cabin at the south end of the lake. The owner had placed a portage map on how to get to Moores cabin and the river. The portage included about 1 kilometer of mostly flat to slightly downhill terrain to a beaver pond, across the beaver pond, then a short portage to the Moores cabin and the river. The night was rather cold, it ended up as the coldest night of the trip. The lake was all foggy and beautiful in front of the Bologna Ridge.

The portage to Moore's cabin was not as obvious as described on the map at the Island Lake cabin. The 1K trail to the beaver pond was well worn, but there was supposed to be some flagging at the other side of the beaver pond. The correct route is directly across the pond in the main channel, and keep going. The flagging is a single wrap of tape around a 3-inch tree and not visible until one is almost to the flagging. The side channel to the cabin has a few downed trees and the canoe must be pulled about 50 meters through waist-deep water. Moores cabin was in rather poor condition. Coincidentally, we met the Moore's at Virginia Falls. They were canoeing the river with their family. They likewise felt the cabin was far different than it used to be. You might want to visit their website at www.nahannitrailhead.com. They have written an excellent book about the year they lived at the cabin.

We paddled from Moore's cabin down through Elbow Rapid and on to Broken Skull River where we camped. It was rather cold and a little rainy as we paddled through the Elbow rapids area. Elbow rapid was fairly easy although the water was somewhat high.

By the time we reached the Broken Skull River, the weather had cleared and the view of Vampire Peaks was spectacular.

This spot was perhaps the most remote, untouched place I have ever been in my life. It was the first time I've been to a large area and not seen any evidence of other people.


Next: Broken Skull to Virginia Falls